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Royal Robbins : ウィキペディア英語版
Royal Robbins

Royal Robbins (born February 3, 1935〔Robbins, Royal (2009), ''To Be Brave (My Life, Volume One''), Ojai, CA, USA: Pink Moment Press. ISBN 978-0-9825000-1-9.〕) is one of the pioneers of American rock climbing. After learning to climb at Tahquitz he went on to make first ascents of many big wall routes in Yosemite. As an early proponent of boltless, pitonless clean climbing, he, along with Yvon Chouinard, was instrumental in changing the climbing culture of the late 1960s and early 1970s by encouraging the use and preservation of the natural features of the rock. He went on to become a well-known kayaker.
==Notable Ascents==

* 1957 ''Northwest Face'' of Half Dome, Yosemite, CA, USA. First grade VI climb in America. With Mike Sherrick and Jerry Gallwas.
* 1961 ''Salathé Wall'', El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA. Hardest big wall grade VI climb in world at time of first ascent. With Tom Frost and Chuck Pratt.〔
* 1962 ''American Direct'', Aiguille du Dru, Mont Blanc Range, France. With Gary Hemming.
* 1963 ''Direct NW Face'' of Half Dome, Yosemite, CA, USA. With Dick McCracken.〔
* 1963 ''Robbins Route'', Mount Proboscis, Logan Mountains, NWT, Canada. With Jim McCarthy, Layton Kor and Dick McCracken.
* 1964 ''North America Wall'', El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA. With Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt and Yvon Chouinard.〔
* 1964 ''North Face'', Mount Hooker, Wind River Range, Wyoming, USA. With Dick McCracken and Charlie Raymond.
* 1964 ''Danse Macabre'', Devils Tower, Wyoming, USA.
* 1964 ''Final Exam'', Castle Rock, Boulder, CO, USA. With Pat Ament.
* 1964 ''Athlete's Feat'', Castle Rock, Boulder, CO, USA.
* 1965 ''American Direttissima'', Aiguille du Dru, Mont Blanc Range, France. With John Harlin.
* 1967 ''Nutcracker'', Yosemite, CA, USA. An early all-nut protected route, now a Yosemite classic.
* 1967 ''West Face'', El Capitan, Yosemite Valley - First ascent with TM Herbert.
* 1967 ''North Face'', VI 5.9 A3, Mount Geikie, Canadian Rockies, first ascent with John Hudson.
* 1967 ''North Face'', Mount Edith Cavell, Canadian Rockies - First solo ascent.〔
* 1969 Mount Jeffers, Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains, Alaska, USA. First ascent of peak with Fitschen and Raymond.
* 1969 ''The Prow'', Washington Column, Yosemite, CA, USA. With Glen Denny.〔
* 1969 ''Tis-sa-ack'', Half Dome, Yosemite, CA, USA. With Don Peterson.〔
* 1970 ''Arcturus'', Half Dome, Yosemite, CA, USA. With Dick Dorworth.〔

抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア(Wikipedia)
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